Inscribed Horizontal Bands on Two Cloth-of-Gold Panels and Their Function as Part of an Īlḫānid Dress

Mühlemann, Corinne (2017). Inscribed Horizontal Bands on Two Cloth-of-Gold Panels and Their Function as Part of an Īlḫānid Dress. Ars orientalis, 47(20171214), pp. 43-68. Smithsonian Institution 10.3998/ars.13441566.0047.003

[img] Text
Muehlemann_inscribed-horizontal-bands-on-two-cloth-of-gold-panels.pdf - Published Version
Restricted to registered users only
Available under License Publisher holds Copyright.
Copyright to the content of the articles published in the Ars Orientalis remains with the journal. Copyright to the images in the articles published in Ars Orientalis remains with the image rights owners. This article may be copied for use by nonprofit educational institutions, and individual scholars and educators, for scholarly or instructional purposes only, provided that (1) copies are distributed at or below cost, (2) the author, the publisher, and the Journal are identified on the copy, and (3) proper notice of the copyright appears on each copy. For other uses, content permission must be obtained from Ars Orientalis and image permission must be obtained from the rights owners.

Download (30MB) | Request a copy

Around 1300, horizontal bands began to appear on cloths-­of-­gold produced in Central Asia and the Mediterranean. Embellishments to the silk panels, they are woven in from selvage to selvage, where they either interrupt or superimpose the pattern repeat. As cloths-­of-­gold were highly valuable, treasured trade objects, most found their way to Europe, where they functioned as liturgical vestments, grave furnishings, or in reliquaries. Following this object transfer, knowledge of the intended function of these bands was lost. Using the two horizontal bands on silks Ia and Ib, part of the dalmatic and tunicella of the so-­called vestments of Henry II (d. 1024), this article seeks to determine where and during which interval these horizontal bands appeared on a cloth-­of-­gold, and to identify—­by comparing silks Ia and Ib to other silks with horizontal bands and to depictions of horizontal bands in other media, as well as by discussing the Arabic inscriptions—­these bands’ intended function in an Īlkḫānid dress.

Item Type:

Journal Article (Original Article)

Division/Institute:

06 Faculty of Humanities > Department of Art and Cultural Studies > Institute of Art History
06 Faculty of Humanities > Department of Art and Cultural Studies > Institute of Art History > History of Textiles

UniBE Contributor:

Mühlemann, Corinne

Subjects:

200 Religion > 290 Other religions
400 Language > 490 Other languages
700 Arts
700 Arts > 730 Sculpture, ceramics & metalwork
700 Arts > 740 Drawing & decorative arts

ISSN:

0571-1371

Publisher:

Smithsonian Institution

Language:

English

Submitter:

Corinne Mühlemann

Date Deposited:

11 Apr 2018 11:15

Last Modified:

04 Nov 2019 05:08

Publisher DOI:

10.3998/ars.13441566.0047.003

Related URLs:

Uncontrolled Keywords:

Medieval Islamic Textiles, Cloth-of-Gold, Ilkhanid Dress, Robe of Honor (Khil'a, tahsrif), Arabic Inscriptions in Textiles, Woven Sigantures, Organization of Workshops, Object transfer

BORIS DOI:

10.7892/boris.108432

URI:

https://boris.unibe.ch/id/eprint/108432

Actions (login required)

Edit item Edit item
Provide Feedback