Muscle oxygen dynamics in elite climbers during finger-hang tests at varying intensities

Feldmann, Andri M.; Erlacher, Daniel; Pfister, Sandro; Lehmann, Remo (2020). Muscle oxygen dynamics in elite climbers during finger-hang tests at varying intensities. Scientific reports, 10(1), p. 3040. Springer Nature 10.1038/s41598-020-60029-y

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The aim of this study was to measure muscle oxygen saturation (SmO2) dynamics during a climbing specific task until failure in varying conditions. Our prediction was that SmO2 should be a good marker to predict task failure. Eleven elite level climbers performed a finger-hang test on a 23 mm wooden rung under four different weighted conditions, 1. body weight (BW), 2. body weight+20% (BW+20), 3. body weight −20% (BW −20) and 4. body weight −40% (BW −40), maintaining half crimp grip until voluntary exhaustion. During each trial SmO2 and time to task failure (TTF) were measured. TTF was then compared to the minimally attainable value of SmO2 (SmO2min) and time to Smo2min (TTmin). There is a considerable degree of agreement between attainable SmO2min at high intensity conditions (MBW =21.6% ± 6.4; MBW+20 = 24.0% ±7.0; MBW−20= 23.0% ±7.3). Bland-Altman plot with an a priori set equivalency interval of ±5% indicate that these conditions are statistically not different (MBW-BW + 20 =−2.4%, 95% CI [1.4, −6.2]; MBW−Bw−20= −1.3, 95% CI [2.5, −5.1]). The fourth and lowest intensity condition (MBW −40=32.4% ± 8.8) was statistically different and not equivalent (MBW-BW −40=−8.8%, 95% CI [−5.0, −12.6]). The same agreement was found between TTF and TTmin for the high intensity conditions plotted via Bland-Altman. While the rate with which oxygen was extracted and utilised changed with the conditions, the attainable SmO2min remained constant at high intensity conditions and was related to TTF.

Item Type:

Journal Article (Original Article)


07 Faculty of Human Sciences > Institute of Sport Science (ISPW)
07 Faculty of Human Sciences > Institute of Sport Science (ISPW) > Movement and Exercise Science

UniBE Contributor:

Feldmann, Andri Matthias, Erlacher, Daniel, Lehmann, Remo Dario


500 Science > 570 Life sciences; biology
700 Arts > 790 Sports, games & entertainment




Springer Nature




Andri Matthias Feldmann

Date Deposited:

15 Apr 2020 09:03

Last Modified:

05 Dec 2022 15:37

Publisher DOI:


PubMed ID:





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