Bewegtes Beiwerk. Ästhetische Funktionen der Kleiderthematik bei Alanus ab Insulis und Giovanni Boccaccio

Stolz, Michael (2019). Bewegtes Beiwerk. Ästhetische Funktionen der Kleiderthematik bei Alanus ab Insulis und Giovanni Boccaccio. In: Gerok-Reiter, Annette; Wolkenhauer, Anja; Robert, Jörg; Gropper, Stefanie (eds.) Ästhetische Reflexionsfiguren in der Vormoderne. Germanisch-Romanische Monatsschrift. Beihefte: Vol. 88 (pp. 357-392). Heidelberg: Winter

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Art historians have stressed the function of clothing as ›accessory in the move‹ (›bewegtes Beiwerk‹, Aby Warburg), and have even pointed to its autonomous status in sculpture und painting (Georges Didi-Huberman). In this perspective, the article shows how the topic of cloth is productive as a figure of self-disclosure (›Selbstbeschreibung‹) in pre-modern texts, such as Alan of Lille’s ›De planctu Naturae‹ (from ca. 1160/65) and the Griselda-novella, which concludes Boccaccio’s ›Decameron‹ (written shortly after 1348). In Alan’s poem the function of the multi-layered cloth covering the personified Nature oscillates between representing the physical world and conveying imaginative and poetic qualities, whereas in Boccaccio’s novel the changing dresses of Griselda (including nudity) imply the dynamics of storytelling. Both texts, differing in date and contexts of origin (the so-called ›Humanism‹ of the 12th and the proto-Renaissance of the 13th century) demonstrate that cloth tends to be an agent of aesthetic self-reflection.

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