Jiří, Baláš; Jan, Gajdošík; Tomáš, Javorský; Patrik, Berta; Feldmann, Andri (2024). Measuring critical force in sport climbers: a validation study of the 4 min all-out test on finger flexors. European journal of applied physiology, 124(9), pp. 2787-2798. Springer 10.1007/s00421-024-05490-7
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PURPOSE
The critical force (CF) concept, differentiating steady and non-steady state conditions, extends the critical power paradigm for sport climbing. This study aimed to validate CF for finger flexors derived from the 4 min all-out test as a boundary for the highest sustainable work intensity in sport climbers.
METHODS
Twelve participants underwent multiple laboratory visits. Initially, they performed the 4 min intermittent contraction all-out test for CF determination. Subsequent verification visits involved finger-flexor contractions at various intensities, including CF, CF -2 kg, CF -4 kg, and CF -6 kg, lasting for 720 s or until failure, while monitoring muscle-oxygen dynamics of forearm muscles.
RESULTS
CF, determined from the mean force of last three contractions, was measured at 20.1 ± 5.7 kg, while the end-force at 16.8 ± 5.2 kg. In the verification trials, the mean time to failure at CF was 440 ± 140 s, with only one participant completing the 720 s task. When the load was continuously lowered (-2 kg, -4 kg, and -6 kg), a greater number of participants (38%, 69%, and 92%, respectively) successfully completed the 720 s task. Changes of muscle-oxygen dynamics showed a high variability and could not clearly distinguish between exhaustive and non-exhaustive trials.
CONCLUSIONS
CF, based on the mean force of the last three contractions, failed to reliably predict the highest sustainable work rate. In contrast, determining CF as the end-force of the last three contractions exhibited a stronger link to sustainable work. Caution is advised in interpreting forearm muscle-oxygen dynamics, lacking sensitivity for nuanced metabolic responses during climbing-related tasks.
Item Type: |
Journal Article (Original Article) |
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Division/Institute: |
07 Faculty of Human Sciences > Institute of Sport Science (ISPW) |
UniBE Contributor: |
Feldmann, Andri Matthias |
Subjects: |
700 Arts > 790 Sports, games & entertainment |
ISSN: |
1439-6327 |
Publisher: |
Springer |
Language: |
English |
Submitter: |
Pubmed Import |
Date Deposited: |
29 Apr 2024 15:59 |
Last Modified: |
02 Sep 2024 00:12 |
Publisher DOI: |
10.1007/s00421-024-05490-7 |
PubMed ID: |
38668851 |
Uncontrolled Keywords: |
Critical power Intermittent exercise Isometric contraction Muscle oxygen NIRS Threshold |
BORIS DOI: |
10.48350/196293 |
URI: |
https://boris.unibe.ch/id/eprint/196293 |
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