Prestigious Textiles from Baghdad in Iberia? On Textile Inscriptions, Patterns and Looms

Mühlemann, Corinne (12 April 2023). Prestigious Textiles from Baghdad in Iberia? On Textile Inscriptions, Patterns and Looms (Unpublished). In: Lecture Series: Prestigious Clothing, RomanIslam Center for Comparative Empire and Transcultural Studies, organized by Stefan Heidemann and Sabine Panzram. Universität Hamburg. 12.04.2023.

The Arabic inscriptions of two early lampas fabrics refer to Baghdad as their place of production. However, their woven structures as well as an orthographic feature in one of the inscriptions indicate that they were produced on the Iberian Peninsula at the beginning of the twelfth century. How do we have to understand these references to the capital of the Abbasid empire? In this talk I will argue that the inscriptions, the patterns and the woven structures of the two silks allow three lines of inquiry: the construction of value in twelfth century Iberia, the transmission of weaving knowledge, and the representation of textiles in Islamicate legal sources, namely the Kitāb fī adāb al-ḥisba of al-Saqaṭī, who was the market inspector (muḥtasib) of Málaga at the end of the eleventh and beginning of the twelfth century. His ḥisba reveals detailed information about the quality of woven fabrics and previously unknown textile terminology relating to the medieval draw loom.

Item Type:

Conference or Workshop Item (Speech)

Division/Institute:

06 Faculty of Humanities > Department of Art and Cultural Studies > Institute of Art History
06 Faculty of Humanities > Department of Art and Cultural Studies > Institute of Art History > History of Textiles

UniBE Contributor:

Mühlemann, Corinne

Subjects:

700 Arts
700 Arts > 740 Drawing & decorative arts
100 Philosophy
800 Literature, rhetoric & criticism
900 History

Language:

German

Submitter:

Janina Miguela Aleta Ammon

Date Deposited:

28 Mar 2024 16:51

Last Modified:

28 Mar 2024 16:51

URI:

https://boris.unibe.ch/id/eprint/194773

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